Wootton Rivers Kennet & Avon Canal Walk
The walk passes through pleasant open countryside before reaching the Kennet & Avon Canal at neighbouring New Mill. Little remains of the former wharf that lay to the west of New Mill Bridge. A 2-mile section of towpath follows, that includes locks 51 to 54 and a selection of overbridges. Beyond lock 54, which gives access to the canal’s summit pound, the walk follows quiet lanes and lonely bridle paths back to Wootton Rivers. The slight elevation enjoyed by these byways brings wide-ranging views across the Wiltshire countryside.
The Royal Oak lies at the northern end of Wootton Rivers’ main street, about 1/4 mile from the Kennet & Avon Canal. Although not strictly a canal side pub, many a passing barge will moor in the village and its occupants enjoy a short stroll to this most attractive of hostelries. In keeping with the rest of Wootton Rivers, the Royal Oak is a timber-framed building adorned with a magnificent thatched roof.
Internally, there are two main rooms. The L-shaped dining lounge is pleasantly furnished with armchairs, settles and tripod tables. With its low ceilings, beams and wood burning stove, a most cosy atmosphere awaits the inn’s customers. The comfortable timbered bar offers patrons the chance to try their hand at a variety of pub games, including darts, pool and chess. On warm summer days, the inn’s terrace and beer garden will offer a pleasant alternative for visitors.
The extensive menu at the Royal Oak ranges from basic bar snacks through to dishes that would do justice to many a restaurant. Sandwiches, soups, salads and ploughman’s sit alongside more substantial offerings that include local trout, ratatouille with toasted brie topping and lamb with spices, apricot and almonds. If all that were not enough, the range of desserts includes sherry trifle and sticky treacle and almond pudding.
With its idyllic location deep in the Wiltshire countryside, amidst a host of attractive thatched cottages, the Royal Oak is understandably a popular hostelry. At weekends, the pub is often very busy, whilst in the evenings patrons can be remarkably well-dressed! Walkers may well find the Royal Oak more comfortable at lunchtimes, particularly earlier in the week.
The Walk
Walk down the main street through Wootton Rivers. The single street through the village is lined with timber-framed and thatch cottages which will soon have you breaking that commandment about ‘not coveting thy neighbour’s house’! Just off the main street lies St Andrew’s church where, as well as repenting of your covetousness, the unusual church clock will certainly catch your eye. Constructed of all manner of junk by a local eccentric, Jack Spratt, its face carries letters rather than numbers. The letters form the text ‘TO GOD BE GLORY’.
Cross the Kennet & Avon and the main West of England railway, before turning right along the lane signposted to Milton Lilbourne. In 1/4 mile, you will pass through the hamlet of Cuckoo’s Knob. At the bottom of a small valley just beyond this settlement, bear left onto an enclosed bridle path that runs parallel to the road. In 300 yards, at a cross track, turn right and you will soon rejoin the Milton Lilbourne road. Turn left and follow the lane for 150 yards to the bottom of a hill, where a footpath on the right is signposted to New Mill.
Follow this footpath across a couple of fields, keeping parallel to -but slightly above – a small stream on your left. Beyond the second field, follow the path across the drive leading to Totteridge Farm, before passing in front of the farmhouse and into open fields. Continue following an ill-defined field path across a couple of fields, the stream still running parallel on the left, until you reach the main West of England railway.
Pass through a gap in the fence on the left, and follow a grassy path down to a paddock. Head half-right across this field to a gateway in the far corner, where you join a quiet country lane. Turn right, and follow the lane through the hamlet of New Mill to reach New Mill Bridge and the Kennet & Avon Canal.
Follow the towpath to the right for 1 mile back to Wootton Rivers, where a left turn will return you to the Royal Oak should you want a shorter walk. For the full walk, continue along the towpath for just over 1 mile. The overbridges around Wootton Rivers were designed as ‘carriage bridges’ on the instructions of St John’s College at Cambridge. The college was a local landowner, and insisted that the bridges be wide enough for carriages and with the minimum of incline on their approaches.
Immediately before Cadley Lock (number 54), cross the overbridge and follow the track/drive northwards for just under Y2 mile to a road junction. Turn right, and follow the road uphill for 200 yards to a bridle path on the left, immediately before the remains of the railway bridge that carried the old Marlborough Railway. Turn left, and follow this bridle path across the hilltop for 3/4 mile to a crossroads.
Turn left at this crossroads, and follow another bridlepath back towards Wootton Rivers. In just 150 yards, pass through a gateway (no gate) on the right into an open field. Follow the left-hand field boundary until, halfway across the field, you cross a stile on the left-hand side. Beyond this stile, follow an enclosed track down Wootton Hill back into Wootton Rivers. Turn right on reaching the road in the village, and you will soon find yourself back at the Royal Oak.
